The Hazel Cardigan - Free Pattern
As the weather turns, the nights draw in and the sun rises later in the morning what is better than pulling on a chunky, cosy cardigan? Maybe the sweet satisfaction of knowing that you made the cardigan yourself!
The Hazel cardigan is a great project for those new to making garments, if you can crochet a rectangle then I'm certain you can make this cardigan. So go raid your stash for your favourite chunky yarn and let's get going!
If you would prefer to have a printable PDF copy of the pattern with photo support included you can get this from my website, Etsy or Ravelry.
Before You Begin:
You will need:
Chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn (see below for note on choosing your yarn)
6.5mm and 7mm crochet hook or size required to meet gauge
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers
Scissors
Optional: buttons if you wish to add them
Yardage:
This is an approximate amount based on using Paintbox Simply Chunky (136m/146yds per 100g)
785m, 884m, 952m, 1020m, 1156m, 1252m, 1360m, 1496m, 1632m
A note on yarn choice: not all 5 weight yarn is equal, there can be a big difference in the thickness of a yarn within this category. For example, Hue + Me is definitely on the heavier side whereas Stylecraft Life Chunky is on the much lighter side.
For the Hazel cardigan I recommend using a yarn that is on the lighter side of chunky to ensure that the fabric of the cardigan has nice drape and doesn't feel to stiff. It is of course personal preference and you can choose to use whichever yarn you would like, just note that yardage can vary widely depending on the yarn used as will the overall finish of the cardigan.
Yarns I recommend: Stylecraft Life Chunky, Paintbox Simply Chunky, Hayfield Bonus Chunky Tweed, Stylecraft Special Chunky.
Stitch Abbreviations
(US Terms)
St/s - stitch/es
Ch - chain
Sl st - slip stitch
SC - single crochet
HDC - half double crochet
BLO - working in the back loop only
HDC 3rd loop - half double crochet in the third loop (see special stitches).
Gauge:
10 sts by 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm/ 4" x 4"
How to make a gauge swatch:
Using a 7mm hook, ch 20.
HDC in 2nd ch from hook and in each stitch across. Ch1 and turn.
HDC in each stitch across.
Repeat until you have a total of 14 rows.
Then measure the inside stitches/rows to check your gauge. You want to ensure you match the gauge for the stitches but if you find yourself out a little on the number of rows then you can counteract this by working more/less rows on each panel and sleeve.
Measurements
In CM | To Fit Chest (circumference) | Finished Chest (underarm to underarm) | Length (shoulder to hem) | Sleeve (underarm to wrist) |
X-Small | 71-76 | 45 | 56 | 41.5 |
Small | 81-86 | 50 | 56 | 42.5 |
Medium | 91-97 | 55 | 58 | 42.5 |
Large | 101-107 | 60 | 58 | 44.5 |
X Large | 111-117 | 65 | 60 | 44.5 |
2X Large | 122-127 | 70 | 60 | 44.5 |
3X Large | 132-137 | 75 | 62 | 46 |
4X Large | 142-147 | 80 | 62 | 48 |
5X Large | 152-158 | 85 | 64 | 48 |
*Please note that sizes 4X and 5X were unfortunately not pattern tested due to a lack of applicants. If these are sizes you wear please do consider joining my tester group, I'd love to have you! Time adjustments can be made to tests where required.
Special Stitches:
HDC in the 3rd Loop
For this stitch, you work a HDC as normal but rather than through the top of the stitch you go through the 3rd loop of the HDC from the previous row.
The 3rd loop will be the bar along the front of the stitch as you are looking at it (see photo)
To complete your HDC 3rd Loop, YO and insert your hook under the 3rd loop, pull up a loop so there are 3 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 3 loops.
Pattern Notes:
The Hazel Cardigan is made up of 5 pieces; two front panels, the back panel and two sleeves. The neckband ribbing is worked directly onto the cardigan once all seaming has been completed.
The sleeves are worked independently and then sewn onto the main body, therefore if you would like to follow the sleeve pattern for a different size this is easy to do.
Ch1 does not count as a stitch.
The stitch counts for each size will be given as follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X sts) If separate instructions are required for a specific size this will be made clear. Where only one stitch count is given this means that it is the same for every size.
The RS of your panels will be those showing the ridge detail created by working into the 3rd loop.
If you are making the ribbing of your cardigan in a different colour to the main body/sleeves you will need to work the ribbing and the HDC row along the length of the ribbing in one colour and then switch to your second colour on the HDC 3rd Loop row.
The Pattern
Back Panel:
Using a 6.5mm crochet hook (or hook 0.5-1 mm smaller than that needed to reach gauge)
Row 1: Ch 12. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (11 sts).
Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (11 sts).
Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 rows.
Now turn your work clockwise so that you can work along the long edge of the ribbing. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Ch1 and turn (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 sts)
Note: If your main body is going to be a different colour to your ribbing then switch colour now.
Switch to a 7mm crochet hook. (or hook needed to meet gauge)
Row 1 (RS): HDC in the front 3rd Loop of each st across. Ch1 and turn. (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85).
Row 2 (WS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 sts)
Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46, 48 rows.
(This includes the rows worked in the 3rd loop)
Neck Shaping
Row 1 (RS): HDC in the first 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts. HDC2TOG across the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. (17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33 sts)
Row 2: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts)
Row 3: HDC in the first 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30 HDC. HDC2 TOG across the last 2 sts. (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts)
Fasten off.
Neck Shaping cont.
With RS facing, count 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 sts from the left and attach your yarn. Ch1 ready to begin the first row.
Row 1 (RS): HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in the next 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts. Ch1 and turn.
(17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33 sts)
Row 2: HDC across, HDC2TOG across the last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts)
Row 3: HDC2TOG, HDC in each st across. (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts)
Fasten off.
Front Panels:
Both panels begin the same. Using a 6.5mm crochet hook or hook used for back panel ribbing.
Row 1:Ch 12. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (11 sts).
Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (11 sts).
Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41 rows.
Now turn your work clockwise so that you can work along the long edge of the ribbing. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Ch1 and turn (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41 sts)
Switch to a 7mm crochet hook (or hook used for back panel)
Row 1 (WS): HDC in the front 3rd Loop of each st across. Ch1 and turn. (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41).
Row 2 (RS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (21, 23, 26, 28, 31, 33, 36, 38, 41 sts)
Row 3 - 29: Repeat row 2.
We will now begin decreasing on every even number row and this is where the panels are worked slightly differently so follow Panel 1 instructions for one side and Panel 2 instructions for the other to ensure that the decrease shaping is the opposite for each side of the cardigan.
Panel 1
Row 30 (dec): HDC2TOG across first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40 sts)
Row 31: HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40 sts)
Row 32 (dec): Repeat row 30 (19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39 sts)
Row 33: Repeat row 31 (19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39 sts)
Repeat rows 32 and 33 (dec row, non-decrease row) until you have a total of 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts and a total of 41, 41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49 rows.
Final 2 rows: HDC into each st across, ch1 and turn. (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts)
Fasten off leaving a tail approximately 35cm for seaming.
Panel 2
Row 30 (dec): HDC in each st across until 2 sts remain, HDC2TOG across last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40 sts)
Row 31: HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (20, 22, 25, 27, 30, 32, 35, 37, 40 sts)
Row 32 (dec): Repeat row 30 (19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39 sts)
Row 33: Repeat row 31 (19, 21, 24, 26, 29, 31, 34, 36, 39 sts)
Repeat rows 32 and 33 (dec row, non-decrease row) until you have a total of 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts
and a total of 41, 41, 43, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47, 49 rows.
Final 2 rows: HDC into each st across, ch1 and turn. (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31 sts)
Fasten off leaving a tail approximately 35cm for seaming.
Sleeves:
Make 2 the same
Cuffs
Using a 6.5mm hook. If you feel your cuff is going to be tighter than you’d like use a 7mm hook.
Row 1: Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts).
Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts).
Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 18, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 rows.
Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the starting chain.
Turn your work so that you can work around the top edge of the cuff. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing (the same as when doing the ribbing for the panels). Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (18, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts)
You will now be working in joined rounds.
Using a 7mm hook.
Rnd 1 (WS):
HDC into the front 3rd loop. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (18, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 sts)
Note: Working into the front 3rd loop here is the same as for the panels but you are working on the inside of the sleeve, with the WS of the cuff facing you. See photo support.
Round 2 (RS):
HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next st. Repeat this around the cuff. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.
(27, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 sts)
Rounds 3-7: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1 and turn. (27, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 sts)
Round 8 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.
(29, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50 sts)
Rounds 9-13: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (29, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50 sts)
Round 14 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st. HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.
(31, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52 sts)
Last INC round for size XS
Rounds 15-19: HDC into each st around. Sl tst to join, ch1 and turn. (31, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52 sts)
XS Round 20: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join. ch1 and turn. (31 sts)
Continue working rounds of HDC until you have 32 rounds in total. Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail.
All other sizes
Round 20 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.
(33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54 sts)
Rounds 21-25: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54 sts)
Round 26 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.
(35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56 sts)
Last INC round for S, M, L, XL
Rounds 27 - 32: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53, 56 sts)
Sizes S, M, L XL work rounds of HDC until you have a total of 33, 34, 34, 35 rounds. Fasten off leaving a 55cm tail.
2X, 3X, 4X, 5X continue
Round 33 (RS) INC): 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (49, 52, 55, 58 sts)
(This is an optional increase round, you can replace with a standard HDC round if you wish)
Round 34 onwards: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. (49, 52, 55, 58 sts)
Repeat until you have a total of 36, 36, 37, 37 rounds.
All remaining sizes fasten off leaving a 65cm tail.
Seaming:
Notes before you begin:
The Right Sides of your work will always be facing each other. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to mark the RS of both your panels with a stitch marker.
I recommend whip stitching as the seaming method but please feel free to do whatever you are most confident with if you usually use a different method.
Before you begin seaming your panels together, lay your back panel down flat and line up your sleeves so that you can mark where your arm holes need to begin (the end tail of each sleeve should be orientated to the underside centre so that it will be inline with the seam).
Main Body
Lay your back and one of your front panels side by side, WS facing you, with the shoulders lined up. Ensure that your rows are lined up as evenly as possible.
Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail, approximately 100-120cm (rather too much than not enough) and work the needle through the very edge of both panels from right to left, tying a knot to secure.
You will then whip stitch your two panels together until just before the stitch marker denoting where your armhole will begin. Do not fasten off your yarn just yet incase you need to adjust your seam.
Shoulders
Using the long tails left from the neck shaping, whip stitch your along the length of your shoulders. Fasten off.
Repeat for second front panel.
Sleeves
With the WS of your cardigan facing you, insert your first sleeve through the armhole and line up the sleeve to the armhole. It should fit neatly without the need to stretch out the sleeve or the armhole too much. If your side seam needs increasing or pulling back then adjust as needed.
Using the long tail left on sleeve, whip stitch around the armhole and the opening of your sleeve. You want to ensure that you work through each stitch of the sleeve. Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve.
Turn your cardigan the right way out and double check that you are happy with how everything is seamed before weaving in all of your ends.
Ribbing:
With your cardigan facing you, attach your yarn to the bottom left corner of the left-side front panel.
Using a 6.5mm hook, ch10.
Row 1: SC into the 2nd chain from the hook and into each at along. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts)
Row 2: SCBLO into each st along. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts).
Row 3:
SCBLO into each st along. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts)
Row 4: SCBLO into each st along. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts)
Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the front opening of your cardigan until you reach the bottom right-hand corner. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
When working into the main body of the panels you will want to work approximately 2 rows of SCBLO ribbing per 3 HDC rows of the panel.
A note on buttonholes:
If you would like to add to add buttonholes to your Hazel cardigan, I suggest using stitch markers to note roughly where you would like your buttonholes to be along the front of your cardigan. I usually use 4-6 buttons for my cardigans depending on the size of the button.
You will work your ribbing as normal until you reach the first stitch marker. I recommend working the buttonhole on a WS row, when you are working away from the cardigan.
Buttonhole row: SCBLO in the first 4 sts, ch2 and skip a st, SCBLO in the final 4 sts. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts)
Next row: SCBLO in first 4 sts, SC into the ch2 space, SCBLO in last 4 sts. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. (9 sts)
I would always check that my button fit through the hole. If it doesn’t you may need to skip an extra stitch to create a larger buttonhole. Aim to have the same number of standard ribbing rows between each buttonhole. Generally, I have mine spaced about 8 rows apart.
Congratulations your Hazel Cardigan is now complete!
I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern, my first free garment pattern no less! I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHHazelCardigan #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart
If you would like to join my pattern tester list so that you can be the first to know about upcoming pattern tests you can do that here. Be sure to check out my other patterns also, all free patterns can be found on the website and I have paid patterns on my website, Etsy and Ravelry. I'm also over on YouTube now so please do subscribe!
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