Search Results

As the weather turns, the nights draw in and the sun rises later in the morning what is better than pulling on a chunky, cosy cardigan? Maybe the sweet satisfaction of knowing that you made the cardigan yourself! The Hazel cardigan is a great project for those new to making garments, if you can crochet a rectangle then I'm certain you can make this cardigan. So go raid your stash for your favourite chunky yarn and let's get going! If you would prefer to have a printable PDF copy of the pattern with photo support included you can get this from my website , Etsy or Ravelry . Before You Begin: You will need: Chunky/bulky/5 weight yarn (see below for note on choosing your yarn) 6.5mm and 7mm crochet hook or size required to meet gauge Tapestry needle Stitch markers Scissors Optional: buttons if you wish to add them Yardage: This is an approximate amount based on using Paintbox Simply Chunky (136m/146yds per 100g) 785m, 884m, 952m, 1020m, 1156m, 1252m, 1360m, 1496m, 1632m A note on yarn choice: not all 5 weight yarn is equal, there can be a big difference in the thickness of a yarn within this category. For example, Hue + Me is definitely on the heavier side whereas Stylecraft Life Chunky is on the much lighter side. For the Hazel cardigan I recommend using a yarn that is on the lighter side of chunky to ensure that the fabric of the cardigan has nice drape and doesn't feel to stiff. It is of course personal preference and you can choose to use whichever yarn you would like, just note that yardage can vary widely depending on the yarn used as will the overall finish of the cardigan. Yarns I recommend: Stylecraft Life Chunky, Paintbox Simply Chunky, Hayfield Bonus Chunky Tweed, Stylecraft Special Chunky. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet BLO - working in the back loop only HDC 3rd loop - half double crochet in the third loop (see special stitches). Gauge: 10 sts by 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm/ 4" x 4" How to make a gauge swatch: Using a 7mm hook, ch 20. HDC in 2nd ch from hook and in each stitch across. Ch1 and turn.  HDC in each stitch across.  Repeat until you have a total of 14 rows.  Then measure the inside stitches/rows to check your gauge. You want to ensure you match the gauge for the stitches but if you find yourself out a little on the number of rows then you can counteract this by working more/less rows on each panel and sleeve. Measurements In CM To Fit Chest (circumference) Finished Chest (underarm to underarm) Length (shoulder to hem) Sleeve (underarm to wrist) X-Small 71-76 45 56 41.5 Small 81-86 50 56 42.5 Medium 91-97 55 58 42.5 Large 101-107 60 58 44.5 X Large 111-117 65 60 44.5 2X Large 122-127 70 60 44.5 3X Large 132-137 75 62 46 4X Large 142-147 80 62 48 5X Large 152-158 85 64 48 *Please note that sizes 4X and 5X were unfortunately not pattern tested due to a lack of applicants. If these are sizes you wear please do consider joining my tester group, I'd love to have you! Time adjustments can be made to tests where required. Special Stitches: HDC in the 3rd Loop For this stitch, you work a HDC as normal but rather than through the top of the stitch you go through the 3rd loop of the HDC from the previous row. The 3rd loop will be the bar along the front of the stitch as you are looking at it (see photo) To complete your HDC 3rd Loop, YO and insert your hook under the 3rd loop, pull up a loop so there are 3 loops on your hook. YO and pull through all 3 loops. Pattern Notes: The Hazel Cardigan  is made up of 5 pieces; two front panels, the back panel and two sleeves. The neckband ribbing is worked directly onto the cardigan once all seaming has been completed. The sleeves are worked independently and then sewn onto the main body, therefore if you would like to follow the sleeve pattern for a different size this is easy to do. Ch1 does not  count as a stitch. The stitch counts for each size will be given as follows:  ( XS, S , M , L , XL , 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X   sts ) If separate instructions are required for a specific size this will be made clear. Where only one stitch count is given this means that it is the same for every size. The RS of your panels will be those showing the ridge detail created by working into the 3rd loop. If you are making the ribbing of your cardigan in a different colour to the main body/sleeves you will need to work the ribbing and the HDC row along the length of the ribbing in one colour and then switch to your second colour on the HDC 3rd Loop row. The Pattern Back Panel: Using a 6.5mm crochet hook    (or hook 0.5-1 mm smaller than that needed to reach gauge) Row 1: Ch 12. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85  rows. Now turn your work clockwise so that you can work along the long edge of the ribbing. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Ch1 and turn ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85  sts) Note: If your main body is going to be a different colour to your ribbing then switch colour now. Switch to a 7mm crochet hook.    (or hook needed to meet gauge) Row 1 (RS): HDC in the front 3rd Loop of each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85 ). Row 2 (WS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 45 , 50 , 55 , 60 , 65 , 70 , 75 , 80 , 85  sts) Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 40 , 40 , 42 , 42 , 44 , 44 , 46 , 46 , 48   rows. (This includes the rows worked in the 3rd loop)  Neck Shaping   Row 1 (RS): HDC in the first 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts. HDC2TOG across the next 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 , 33  sts) Row 2: HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn.  ( 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts) Row 3: HDC in the first 14 , 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30  HDC. HDC2 TOG across the last 2 sts. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts) Fasten off. Neck Shaping cont. With RS facing, count 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32 , 34  sts from the left and attach your yarn. Ch1 ready to begin the first row. Row 1 (RS): HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts. HDC in the next 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts.  Ch1 and turn. ( 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31 , 33  sts) Row 2: HDC across, HDC2TOG across the last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 16 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts) Row 3: HDC2TOG, HDC in each st across. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts) Fasten off. Front Panels: Both panels begin the same. Using a 6.5mm  crochet hook or hook used for back panel ribbing. Row 1:Ch 12. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 11  sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41  rows. Now turn your work clockwise so that you can work along the long edge of the ribbing. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing. Ch1 and turn ( 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41  sts) Switch to a 7mm crochet hook  (or hook used for back panel) Row 1 (WS): HDC in the front 3rd Loop of each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41 ). Row 2 (RS): HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 21 , 23 , 26 , 28 , 31 , 33 , 36 , 38 , 41  sts) Row 3 - 29: Repeat row 2. We will now begin decreasing on every even number row and this is where the panels are worked slightly differently so follow Panel 1 instructions for one side and Panel 2 instructions for the other to ensure that the decrease shaping is the opposite for each side of the cardigan. Panel 1 Row 30 (dec): HDC2TOG across first 2 sts. HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 31: HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 32 (dec): Repeat row 30 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Row 33: Repeat row 31 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Repeat rows 32 and 33 (dec row, non-decrease row) until you have a total of 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts and a total of 41 , 41 , 43 , 43 , 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49  rows. Final 2 rows: HDC into each st across, ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31   sts) Fasten off leaving a tail approximately 35cm for seaming. Panel 2 Row 30 (dec): HDC in each st across until 2 sts remain, HDC2TOG across last 2 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 31: HDC in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 20 , 22 , 25 , 27 , 30 , 32 , 35 , 37 , 40  sts) Row 32 (dec): Repeat row 30 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Row 33: Repeat row 31 ( 19 , 21 , 24 , 26 , 29 , 31 , 34 , 36 , 39  sts) Repeat rows 32 and 33 (dec row, non-decrease row) until you have a total of 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts and a total of 41 , 41 , 43 , 43 , 45 , 45 , 47 , 47 , 49  rows. Final 2 rows: HDC into each st across, ch1 and turn. ( 15 , 17 , 19 , 21 , 23 , 25 , 27 , 29 , 31  sts) Fasten off leaving a tail approximately 35cm for seaming. Sleeves: Make 2 the same Cuffs Using a 6.5mm hook.       If you feel your cuff is going to be tighter than you’d like use a 7mm hook. Row 1: Ch 10. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts). Row 2: SCBLO in each st across. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts). Row 3 onwards: Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  rows. Join the ribbing by working a sl st in the BLO of the last row sts and the underside of the starting chain. Turn your work so that you can work around the top edge of the cuff. HDC into the side of each row of ribbing (the same as when doing the ribbing for the panels). Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts) You will now be working in joined rounds. Using a 7mm hook. Rnd 1 (WS): HDC into the front 3rd loop. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 18 , 18 , 20 , 22 , 24 , 26 , 28 , 30 , 32  sts)       Note:  Working into the front 3rd loop here is the same as for the panels but you are working on the inside of the sleeve, with the WS of the cuff facing you. See photo support. Round 2 (RS):  HDC into the first st, 2HDC into the next st. Repeat this around the cuff. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 ,   42 , 45 , 48  sts) Rounds 3-7:  HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch 1 and turn. ( 27 , 27 , 30 , 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48  sts) Round 8 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50  sts) Rounds 9-13: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 29 , 29 , 32 , 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50  sts) Round 14 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st. HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52  sts)   Last INC round for size XS Rounds 15-19: HDC into each st around. Sl tst to join, ch1 and turn. ( 31 , 31 , 34 , 37 , 40 , 43 , 46 , 49 , 52  sts) XS Round 20: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join. ch1 and turn. ( 31  sts)          Continue working rounds of HDC until you have 32   rounds in total. Fasten off leaving a 50cm tail.   All other sizes Round 20 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn.  ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54  sts) Rounds 21-25: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 33 , 36 , 39 , 42 , 45 , 48 , 51 , 54  sts) Round 26 (RS) INC: 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56  sts)  Last INC round for S , M , L , XL Rounds 27 - 32: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 35 , 38 , 41 , 44 , 47 , 50 , 53 , 56  sts)           Sizes S , M , L   XL  work rounds of HDC until you have a total of 33 , 34 , 34 , 35  rounds. Fasten off leaving a 55cm tail. 2X , 3X , 4X , 5X   continue Round 33 (RS) INC): 2HDC into the first st, HDC around, 2HDC into the last st. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58  sts)          (This is an optional increase round, you can replace with a standard HDC round if you wish) Round 34 onwards: HDC in each st around. Sl st to join, ch1 and turn. ( 49 , 52 , 55 , 58  sts)     Repeat until you have a total of 36 , 36 , 37 , 37  rounds.  All remaining sizes fasten off leaving a 65cm tail. Seaming: Notes before you begin: The Right Sides of your work will always be facing each other. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to mark the RS of both your panels with a stitch marker. I recommend whip stitching as the seaming method but please feel free to do whatever you are most confident with if you usually use a different method. Before you begin seaming your panels together, lay your back panel down flat and line up your sleeves so that you can mark where your arm holes need to begin (the end tail of each sleeve should be orientated to the underside centre so that it will be inline with the seam). Main Body Lay your back and one of your front panels side by side, WS facing you, with the shoulders lined up. Ensure that your rows are lined up as evenly as possible. Thread your tapestry needle with a long tail, approximately 100-120cm (rather too much than not enough) and work the needle through the very edge of both panels from right to left, tying a knot to secure.  You will then whip stitch your two panels together until just before the stitch marker denoting where your armhole will begin. Do not fasten off your yarn just yet incase you need to adjust your seam. Shoulders Using the long tails left from the neck shaping, whip stitch your along the length of your shoulders. Fasten off. Repeat for second front panel.  Sleeves With the WS of your cardigan facing you, insert your first sleeve through the armhole and line up the sleeve to the armhole. It should fit neatly without the need to stretch out the sleeve or the armhole too much. If your side seam needs increasing or pulling back then adjust as needed. Using the long tail left on sleeve, whip stitch around the armhole and the opening of your sleeve. You want to ensure that you work through each stitch of the sleeve. Fasten off and repeat for the second sleeve. Turn your cardigan the right way out and double check that you are happy with how everything is seamed before weaving in all of your ends. Ribbing: With your cardigan facing you, attach your yarn to the bottom left corner of  the left-side front panel.  Using a 6.5mm hook , ch10.  Row 1: SC into the 2nd chain from the hook and into each at along. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) Row 2: SCBLO into each st along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts). Row 3: SCBLO into each st along. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) Row 4: SCBLO into each st along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) Repeat rows 3 and 4 around the front opening of your cardigan until you reach the bottom right-hand corner. Fasten off and weave in your ends. When working into the main body of the panels you will want to work approximately 2 rows of SCBLO ribbing per 3 HDC rows of the panel. A note on buttonholes: If you would like to add to add buttonholes to your Hazel cardigan, I suggest using stitch markers to note roughly where you would like your buttonholes to be along the front of your cardigan. I usually use 4-6 buttons for my cardigans depending on the size of the button. You will work your ribbing as normal until you reach the first stitch marker. I recommend working the buttonhole on a WS row, when you are working away from the cardigan.    Buttonhole row: SCBLO in the first 4 sts, ch2 and skip a st, SCBLO in the final 4 sts. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts)    Next row: SCBLO in first 4 sts, SC into the ch2 space, SCBLO in last 4 sts. Sl st into the next 2 sts along. Ch1 and turn. ( 9  sts) I would always check that my button fit through the hole. If it doesn’t you may need to skip an extra stitch to create a larger buttonhole. Aim to have the same number of standard ribbing rows between each buttonhole. Generally, I have mine spaced about 8 rows apart. Congratulations your Hazel Cardigan is now complete! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern, my first free garment pattern no less! I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHHazelCardigan #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart If you would like to join my pattern tester list so that you can be the first to know about upcoming pattern tests you can do that here . Be sure to check out my other patterns also, all free patterns can be found on the website and I have paid patterns on my website, Etsy and Ravelry. I'm also over on YouTube now so please do subscribe!

Since getting back into reading and fell in love with my Kindle again it's probably no surprise that I've also started eyeing up all of the pretty accessories that you can purchase now for them. I'm talking cases, stickers, pop socket, stands, automatic page turners and of course cosy covers. What nicer thing can you do for your Kindle than give it a beautiful cosy case to keep it well protected when you're out and about. Make it cute and crochet and you really are ticking all of my boxes! This free pattern is for the sweet Daisy Delight Kindle Sleeve. New Updates added! Is it only for Kindles? Absolutely not! The beauty of this pattern is that you can easily adjust the sizing so you can make it for any brand e-reader, your iPad or tablet or even an extra large one as a laptop sleeve. I'll provide hints and tips for how to alter the sizing throughout the pattern. My Kindle is quite an old model now and not quite as large as some of the newer ones so it is most likely that you would need a different stitch count to me anyway. That being said, the ease of altering the size of the cover also makes this pattern very adaptable in terms of what yarn you choose to use, For mine shown here I have used an aran/worsted/ 4 weight 100% acrylic yarn but you could chose to use a thinner or thicker weight yarn and perhaps try cotton for extra durability. The Pattern You will need: Your choice of yarn, I used Yarnsmiths Create Aran in Light Sage, White and Antique Gold. 4.5mm hook for sleeve 4mm hook for Daisies Tapestry needle Scissors Button Optional: Glue Gun, scrap paper. Good idea to have your Kindle/tablet/laptop to hand too. If you are using a different weight yarn then I recommend using a hook that is 0.5-1mm smaller than that suggested. If your tension is generally quite tight anyway then you may wish to stick with the original size. Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet BLO - Back Loop Only Kindle Sleeve Using your main colour in my case Light Sage and a 4.5mm hook, ch as many sts as required to cover the width of you Kindle. Note: If you want a snug fit then ch to just cover the width of yout device, if you'd like a looser fit then have a couple chs either side. I chained 20 and I will refer to my st counts throughout but you can simply replace these with your own. Rnd 1: In the 2nd ch from the hook HDC, HDC in each ch along until one remains. Into the final ch work 3 HDC and turn your work so that you are now working along the bottom side of the ch. HDC into each ch along, working 2 HDC into the last ch. Sl st to join, Ch1 and do not turn. (40 sts) Note : Here's how to work out what your stitch count should be (Starting ch - 1) x 2 + 2 = Stitch Count My example - (20 - 1) x 2 = 38 + 2 = 40 sts Update: I got a new kindle Paperwhite and have made a new sleeve for it which uses. astarting chain of 22 and an overall stitch count of 44 sts. Rnd 2 (RS): HDCBLO into each st around. Sl st to join. Ch 1 and turn. (40 sts) Rnd 3 (WS): HDC in each st around. Sl st to join. Ch 1 and turn (40 sts) Rnd 4 onwards: Repeat rnd 3 until you are almost at the top of your device. Ensure that you end after completing a right side facing row. (I worked a total of 20 rounds) Fasten off main colour and attach contrast colour. For me this was White. Update: For my Kindle Paperwhite I work. a total of 22 rounds. All of the contrast colour rounds will be worked with the RS facing. Rnd 1 (RS) HDC in each st around. SL st to join. Ch1 and do not turn. (40 sts) Rnd 2 (RS): HDC in st around. SL st to join. Ch1 and do not turn. (40 sts) Before the final round where we will create the button loop we need to work out where the centre is on the front of our work. To do this take your total st count and divide by 4. For me this is 40 divded by 4 = 10 This is how many sts you will work before completing your button loop. Rnd 3 (RS): Sc into the first 10 sts, ch 11, sct into the next st to join loop. Continue to sc in each st around. Sl st to join. Fasten off contrast colour and weave in all ends. New! Alternative Button Band If you would like to use the button band seen in the photo with the purple sleeve instead of the simple chain loop then follow these instructions for Rnd 3. Take the total number of your stitches and divide by 2 e.g. 40 sts /2 = 20 This shows that we have 20 sts at the front and 20 sts at the back. We will be working the button loop across 3 sts so we need to find the central 3 sts at the back of the sleeve. e.g. Back = 20 sts 20 - 3 = 17 As this is an odd number I would divide 16 by 2 to give me 8 sts either side of the band and add in the extra stitch to the beginning of the round before the button loop. I find this gives me the most central placement but you could opt to add the extra st in after the band is complete. Rnd 3: SC into the first 9 sts (8 plus the extra 1). HDC into the next 3 sts, ch1 and turn. We will now work across those 3 sts only. HDC in each st, ch 1 and turn. HDC, ch1 and skip a st, HDC in last st, ch 1 and turn. (button hole created) HDC into first st, into the ch sp and into the last st. HDC2TOG across the first 2 sts, HDC into last st. Sl st down the side of the band until you reach the bottom and ca rejoin the final round of the sleeve. SC into the next st and into each st around. Fasten off and weave in your ends. The Daisy For my Kindle sleeve I made 2 small and 2 large daisies. You may wish to make a different amount to give the finish you desire on your cover. Small Daisy Using Antique Gold and a 4mm hook Centre: Into a MR work 8 SC. Sl st to join. (8 sts) Fasten off and attach White. Petals: Ch 4, HDC into 2nd ch from hook and next ch along. SC into final ch. Sl st into next st along the centre to join petal. Repeat this around until you have created all 8 petals. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Large Daisy Using Antique Gold and a 4mm hook Centre: Into a MR work 10 SC. Sl st to join. (10 sts) Fasten off and attach White. Petals: Ch 4, HDC into 2nd ch from hook and next ch along. SC into final ch. Sl st into next st along the centre to join petal. Repeat this around until you have created all 10 petals. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Attaching Daisies I personally prefer to use a glue gun because it's quicker, easier and makes my inner crafter's heart smile but if you don't like them or don't have access to one then you can sew the daisies onto your sleeve. A good tip here, especially if you are using a glue gun, is to arrange the daisies onto your sleeve how you would like them and then take a quick photo on your phone that you can refer to as you attach them one by one. I would also recommend placing a piece of scrap paper into your Kindle sleeve whilst you glue them on just to prevent and glue transfer to the other side of the fabric which could result in it getting stuck. Your final touch is to sew on your button and then your Daisy Kindle Sleeve is complete! I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #DaisyDelightKindleSleeve #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart

The '-ber' months are here and with that comes Pumpkin Season. I for one want cute little pumpkins adorning everything! I've got some plush pumpkins on my mantel piece, a pumpkin garland above my desk and now I have a pumpkin cup cosy for my favourite seasonal beverages! I don't know if it's just my local Starbucks (other coffee shops are available) that don't always give out the cardboard sleeves anymore but I know that if I don't have one my coffee ends up burning my hand. To solve this problem I have designed the super cute Pumpkin Cup Cosy and I now keep one in my bag and one in the car so that I always have one to hand. Using this pattern you can now make one too! I am also pleased (and extremely nervous) to say that you can now get a full tutorial for this pattern on my YouTube channel! Click here to view! ♡ Yes, your girl has started a YouTube channel! I so often get asked for videos for certain patterns or parts of patterns so I thought it was about time and this seemed like a nice simple pattern to begin with as I have never filmed a full length tutorial before. Please do go and like and subscribe to my YouTube channel if you would like to see more free pattern tutorials in the future! The Pattern You will need: Chunky/Bulky/5 weight yarn in your main colour. I used Stylecraft Life Chunky in Natural Neep* Scrap yarn in pumpkin shade - I used a super chunky yarn but chunky or aran would also work. Scrap yarn for stalk - I used aran weight yarn 5mm hook for sleeve 6.5mm and 4mm hook for pumpkin applique Large eye tapestry needle Measuring tape Scissors Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms) St/s - stitch/es Ch - chain Sl st - slip stitch MR - magic ring SC - single crochet HDC - half double crochet DC - half double crochet Crab stitch - reverse single crochet. Sleeve/Cosy: Using main colour and 5mm hook Ch 30 Row 1: HDC into the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch along. (29 sts) We will now sl st to join to the first HDC of the row to join so that we can begin to work in the round. Ensure that your work is not twisted. Ch1, do not turn. Rnd 2: HDC into each st around. Sl st to join and ch 1. (29 sts) Here you will want to measure the width of your cup cosy and it should be approximately 4.25' or 11cm wide. Rnd 3-7: Repeat round 2. Rnd 8 - Crab stitch border. To create the crab stitch (reverse single crochet) border you work around the cosy anticlockwise, the opposite way to that which you would normally crochet. SC into each st and each chain space around, sl st to the first st to join. Fasten off your yarn and weave in your ends. Use the end from the start of your work to close the gap at the bottom of your cup cosy from where we joined the initial row. Note - if you have a very visible seam (usually on darker colours) that you find unappealing then when working your rounds, skip the first st at the base of the ch1 and work your final st into the sl st from the previous round. Pumpkin Applique: Using your pumpkin shade Hook size depends on weight of yarn. My recommendations would be: super chunky/chunk - 6.5mm, aran - 5mm Rnd 1: Working into your MR, SC, 7DC, SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Stalk/stem: Using aran yarn and a 4mm hook Attach your chosen colour to the pumpkin by pulling up a loop through the MR and ch4. Sc into the 2nd ch from your hook and into the next 2 chs. Sl st through the MR to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough for attaching the stalk. Weave in your other end. Attaching Applique You can either sew your applique on or use a glue gun, the choice is yours. To sew your pumpkin onto the sleeve, take a long strand of your pumpkin colour yarn and use that to sew through each stitch of your pumpkin onto the sleeve. Then using your tail from the stalk, sew around the stalk to secure in place. Weave in all of your ends and your Pumpkin Cup Cosy is finished and ready to adorn your next seasonal beverage! What is your go to order for this time of year? Are you a PSL lover or do you prefer a Chai Tea Latte like me? I really hope that you enjoyed making this free pattern. I'd love to see your work so please do tag me in your posts on social media @Brambles.and.Hart and use the hashtags #BHPumpkinCupCosy #BHFreePatternMakes #BramblesandHart